23 November 2009

Oscar for Valentino?

The Cut announced last week that the documentary on Valentino, "The Last Emperor," had made the short list for Oscar nods in the documentary category, but Anna's movie, "The September Issue," did not. Is anyone surprised by this? "The Last Emperor" was a thrilling, moving, utterly electrifying film, and "The September Issue" well, was none of those things to anyone who isn't a die hard fashion fanatic. If one takes a closer look at the two films, it's pretty obvious that "The Last Emperor" was clearly the better film.


I've only seen "The September Issue" once, but I've seen the Valentino documentary more times than I should probably reveal. I might be approaching twenty. I'll leave it at that. Right from the start, "The Last Emperor" has the audience hooked, with a little montage of hits from Valentino's long and illustrious career (great opening song too, by the way!). The movie then proceeds to unfold with both professional and personal drama in the House of Valentino. The viewer is introduced to Valentino's long-time partner and business associate, Giancarlo Giammeti, who is probably the sexiest septuagenarian on the planet, I must say. Throughout the film, viewers get a glimpse at their very special relationship, the kind of relationship that one can only hope to have after fifty years. I believe it has been said before, but someone really needs to give them a reality show, if it can be done in a classy way, that is.


The first highlight of the film was without a doubt the scene when Valentino received the French Legion of Honor, and proceeded to deliver an emotional acceptance speech, honoring Giancarlo, much to Giancarlo's surprise and chagrin. In the scene prior to the award ceremony, Giancarlo is being interviewed explaining that Valentino will never tell him how he feels or if he even appreciates him at all. Then, in the next scene, Valentino says, among flowing tears, that his eternal gratitude goes to Giancarlo and that he would like to thank him from the bottom of his heart. Cue tears in the audience at this point, too.


The film didn't just make one cry, though. It was an all-access, behind-the-scenes look at Valentino's dressmaking process (even his seamstresses were filmed!), his lavish lifestyle (chateau in Paris, ski lodge in Gstaad, private planes, etc.), and his relationship with Giancarlo (I loved the scene where they argue about which street in Rome it was where they first met). "The September Issue" did not feel quite so complete to me. Granted, that could have been because the subject matter was limited, but I still think they could have expounded on more of the hidden aspects of life at the world's most famous magazine. I'm not sure if the viewer left with a new understanding of what happens at Vogue, other than the fact that Anna and Grace are at constant odds with one another (but we fashion nuts already knew this). Perhaps there was one touching scene when Anna explained that her family members aren't exactly impressed with the work she does at that little, small-town publication, Vogue.


Again, with the Valentino documentary, a completely new side of the designer was portrayed. Valentino was funny, witty, and charming. Giancarlo was intelligent, business-savvy, and dedicated. In "The September Issue," Anna just seemed domineering, power-hungry, and, well, a bit of a bitch at times. (I can't believe I just typed that about Anna! Hopefully, the fashion gods will not strike me down now!) It was Grace Coddington who appeared as if she truly cared about what the magazine represented (emphasis on represented, for it no longer seems to be just about fashion, sadly).


The endings of the two respective films were completely different, too. One was moving and memorable (hint: it wasn't "The September Issue"). And I can't even recall how the other ended... "The Last Emperor" closed with the 45th anniversary celebration of Valentino's career. Mannequins wearing outfits from the last four decades were adorned on the walls, socialites and celebrities from all over the world were invited for the final runway show, and acrobats strung on high wires in front of the Colosseum amidst fireworks served as the finale. Who could forget when Valentino took Karl Lagerfeld's hand and personally walked him through the exhibit? Or, after the show, when Lagerfeld said to Valentino, "Compared with us, the rest are making rags?" And, of course, there could not have been a dry eye in the audience when Valentino took his final bow, with "O mio babbino caro" playing, friends standing and cheering, and a tall blonde woman off to the right pumping her fists dramatically as Valentino walked by (Who was that woman??). I've played this part so many times that I can still see it fresh in my mind. Most importantly, the viewer was left with a better understanding of Valentino's enormous contributions to the history of fashion and how he was truly irreplaceable ("After me, the flood," he coyly remarked at the very end.). With the close of "The September Issue," I was disenchanted and started to wonder if maybe fashion was a little too frivolous, after all. Wasn't R.J. Cutler supposed to convince the audience otherwise?


Is it any surprise that it is Valentino, and not Anna, who might be up for an Oscar next year? No. It shouldn't be.

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